Burmese food in new york_ hard to find but easy to love – the new york times

This is the story of Burmese food in New York City: a thwarted quest. Noodles inc Few restaurants here have ever fully dedicated themselves to the cuisine, and only one — Cafe Mingala on the Upper East Side — still stands. Noodles and company employee Stray Burmese dishes sometimes surface in Thai or Chinese restaurants, then disappear.

A post on Chowhound once reported the existence of a Burmese snack counter inside a grocery store in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, but it closed before I could get there.


How lucky, then, that two summers ago Mr. Noodles and company san diego Thway, who works by day in the diamond district, started branching out from church fund-raisers to street fairs, under the banner Burmese Bites. Noodles and company gurnee Until Aug. About noodles 20, he will be making palata every Saturday at the Queens International Night Market, in the parking lot behind the New York Hall of Science in Corona. Noodles and company allergen menu Slide Show

Palata is a furl of the tongue away from Indian paratha, but closer in texture to Malaysian roti canai. Noodles and company grafton The way Mr. Noodles and company belmar Thway learned to make it — from a trishaw driver in his hometown, Hinthada, on the Irrawaddy River in Myanmar — the dough is swung up and slapped down repeatedly until it can’t be stretched any thinner. Noodles and company franklin He abstains from butter, touching the dough with just the oil needed to keep it from clinging to his hands.

If he had time, he would pull it into a long cord, wind it into a ball and punch it flat, to multiply the layers within. E noodles menu (In Burmese, its other name is htut thayar, or hundred layers.) But in Queens the crowds are closing in, so he simply folds the dough from four sides into a rough square before throwing it on the griddle.

It is enough. Noodles express menu The palata is light, crispy and chewy at once; I carried one home by subway, and it arrived an hour later still soft and supple, without a hint of stiffening. Noodles n company locations It may come plain, for dipping into a dusky red chicken curry that leans toward India, Myanmar’s neighbor across the Bay of Bengal; or stuffed with minced chicken breast cooked in paprika oil and a masala that Mr. Noodles and company northbrook Thway imports from Myanmar, with the warmth of cumin pitched against cardamom’s faint menthol kiss.

His other specialty is ohno kaukswe, a soup that is distant kin to Thai kao soy. Order noodles It is subtle and deep, the broth stained sunrise orange, given a nice murk of fish sauce and thickened with coconut milk and chickpea flour that is toasted until it yields a whiff of earth. Noodles and company coon rapids Noodles curl under a crowd of cilantro, onion, hard-boiled egg, lime for squeezing and, if you permit (Mr. Noodles and company norfolk Thway always asks first), red-black chile, ready to swarm.

The menu is likewise brief, cheap and possibly ephemeral at Burma Noodle Bar, an itinerant kitchen stationed through the summer at the Industry City Food Hall, part of a 35-acre work complex on the waterfront in Sunset Park, Brooklyn.

Eugene Saw, the son of Burmese immigrants, used to run a bubble-tea franchise in Northern California, where he was born. Noodles and company utc Two years ago, he started selling laphet thoke (fermented-tea-leaf salad) and sugar-cane juice, hand-cranked on an iron press, at Smorgasburg.

In March, he took over a corner of the Industry City Food Hall, whose raw space suggests an as-yet unthronged Chelsea Market, with concrete floors, a maze of brick and Radiohead leaking from the speakers. Where did noodles originate from Mr. Noodles and company broadway Saw set up a makeshift kitchen, caged in by shipping pallets, and a sign that evokes the arcs and circles of Burmese script, in which sentences look like finely wrought necklaces.

A few sunny yellow metal chairs wait at round tables, but the best seats are in the miniature dining room nearby, a freight elevator’s second life.

Mr. Noodles and company price list Saw’s samusas are flatter and daintier than Indian samosas, with skins that shatter promptly, giving way to a dark mash of potato and the distinctive musk of garam masala. Noodles wiki The rest of the menu is noodles: anchored with chile-strafed fish cakes, the scent of garlic mounting; creamy from coconut milk, under a thatch of fried noodles; and beautifully enmeshed in tamarind and fish sauce, with studdings of dried shrimp and caramelized onions like insistent asterisks, all leavened by red cabbage with its clean finishing crunch.

Will all this be lost at summer’s end? Mr. Where did noodles originate Saw may find another space. Noodles and company hours operation But Mr. Noodles and company royal oak Thway isn’t sure if a restaurant is in his future. Noodles in chicago “Burmese are cautious,” he said. Yama noodles menu He turned 45 this month. Noodles catering “I’m a little too old to take a risk.”