Restaurant review_ cadet sure to rise through the ranks _ montreal gazette

Montreal chefs come in all shapes and sizes, and by that I don’t mean physique as much as personality. Tomato pasta sauce recipe You have your charmers, your visionaries, your foodie geeks, your artists and your worker bees. Healthy homemade pasta sauce from scratch Some are bombastic, others are reserved. Homemade pasta sauce to can There are generous types and Scrooges, great people and nasty ones, toughies and pushovers.


How do you make homemade sauce for pasta Actually, you could probably describe people in any profession the same way. Homemade spaghetti sauce recipe with canned tomatoes But what’s interesting about chefs is seeing how those personality traits translate to the plate.

Chef François Nadon is definitely a shy guy. Homemade sauce for pasta and chicken Don’t wait for him to come greet customers at the table. Homemade pasta sauce and meatballs He’s not leaving that kitchen. Homemade pasta sauce using canned tomatoes The chef at Bouillon Bilk since 2011, Nadon is known for his artistic plate presentations, use of fruit in his cooking and Asian accents. Homemade spaghetti sauce recipe from garden tomatoes His co-owner at Bouillon Bilk is dining room manager Mélanie Blanchette, who is almost as reserved as her partner. Homemade pasta sauce from scratch recipe Yet despite their introverted characters, this dynamic duo now run one of Montreal’s top tables, proving perhaps that the key to success in the restaurant business is discipline and hard work over tireless self-promotion. Sauce for pasta with shrimp At Bouillon Bilk, the food does the talking.

So tight-lipped are Nadon and Blanchette that when the news came out in this column last fall about them opening a second restaurant, not much in the way of information was forthcoming, save that it would be located nearby in a former army surplus store and that it would be a wine bar. Best sauce for homemade pasta Eventually the name came out, Cadet, and then at the end of May — just in time for festival season — Cadet opened shop. Homemade pasta sauce with meat Chef Antonio Ferreira, a former member of Bouillon Bilk’s team, would oversee the kitchen. Homemade pasta sauce mario batali The buzz came fast and was favourable, so I made my way through the crowds a few weeks back to have a look.

I have written the wine bar spiel a dozen times (including just last week about Larrys), so to save you from having to soak it up again, let’s just leave it at the fact that wine bars are all the rage in Montreal, many are excellent, and some of the best are attached to a larger restaurant, which is the case here.

Cadet’s decor is simple and sophisticated. Homemade red pasta sauce The room is large, with a long open kitchen extending down the back. Homemade pasta meat sauce There are sleek light fixtures, bare wood tables and chic black chairs. Sauce for homemade pasta This is exactly the place to take that friend who moved away from Montreal, to give them a taste of the fabulous city they left behind.

In true wine bar form, the dining style is small plates. Homemade pasta sauce for canning Presentations are intricate (none of the usual charcuterie/cheese platters), making this a sort of baby Bouillon Bilk more than a wine bar where the vino gets top billing. Homemade pasta sauce from tomatoes In fact, I’d recommend drinkers begin with a cocktail. Homemade pasta sauce recipe nz The Mai Tai Agricole I started with was as sunny and uplifting as a weekend in Nevis.

The wine list is excellent and, as is the case with most wine bars, places the emphasis on natural/organic/obscure private imports. Tomato pasta sauce using passata Discovery is definitely in the cards and I was impressed that not only are prices reasonable, but our lovely waitress did a bang-up job of describing and recommending bottles. Homemade pasta sauce healthy We settled on a Domaine Ferrer Ribière “Empreinte du Temps” grenache gris, and what a winning accompaniment to our meal this slightly oxidized orange wine turned out to be. Homemade tomato spaghetti sauce fresh tomatoes Good stuff.

Cadet can act as a place to capture the overflow of Bouillon Bilk or those dining on a more restrained budget. Best homemade pasta sauce fresh tomatoes The food is cheffy, but not egregiously so. Easy homemade spaghetti sauce recipe Alas, there were a few misses, but the hits were major, and the plates arrived without delay despite the crowds on this busy Tuesday night.

The first plate starred button mushrooms that were battered, fried, gussied up with smoked paprika and served with green beans and buttery croutons. Easy homemade white sauce for pasta Nothing earth-shattering, but pleasant nonetheless. How to make homemade sauce for pasta Next up, radishes, both raw and braised, topped with dill and a chicken-skin crumble. Pasta sauce homemade I didn’t warm much to this dish at first, but once I got to the cooked radishes at the bottom, I couldn’t get enough of these slightly bitter, velvety-textured babies.

The next two dishes were the best of the meal. Sauce for pasta with chicken One featured a combination of broccoli with labneh (Lebanese cream cheese), pistachios and spätzle. Recipe for homemade pasta sauce It didn’t look like much, but this mix of soft textures and strong flavours was fantastic. Homemade spaghetti sauce from scratch with fresh tomatoes The sautéed spätzle was especially delicious, and the addition of Jerusalem artichoke slices added a hit of earthiness to all those green and caramelized flavours. Homemade fresh tomato pasta sauce I came pretty close to licking that plate clean.

The second dish provided the ideal taste of early summer. Best homemade spaghetti sauce from scratch Served in a shallow bowl, the mix included lightly cooked fresh peas with minced fried lardons, mint and curls of Asiago cheese. Homemade spaghetti sauce recipe to can I relished every bite while imagining how good this would taste in a main course, served over pasta.

The next wave of plates was good, not great. Sauce for pasta and sausage A scallop ceviche with cherry peppers and cucumbers was a bit odd, as the slices of raw scallop and marinated cucumber had a similar slippery texture and the accompanying sauce was creamy, resulting in a rather off-putting mouth feel. Making homemade spaghetti sauce from scratch The lobster with potatoes was fine, if rather rich, with a light mayonnaise sauce served alongside. Homemade tomato basil pasta sauce But what was lacking on this plate was lobster, as the little that was there was overwhelmed with too much potato. Homemade tomato pasta sauce And as much as I swooned over the luscious curried clams strewn with plenty of cilantro (yum!), the pieces of bread wedged between the shells were hard. Best homemade spaghetti sauce recipe for canning What was that all about?

The last savoury plates included soft tortillas filled with corn, lamb and poblano peppers. Tomato pasta sauce with cream cheese Sprinkled with feta and topped with a light pepper sauce, the dish was hearty but heavy going compared to the previous lineup. Homemade pasta sauce to freeze And finally, there were the pork and shrimp dumplings. Homemade spaghetti sauce recipe paula deen Nadon makes a wicked dumpling dish at Bouillon Bilk, so my hopes were high for a new interpretation. Homemade tomato and basil pasta sauce As good as it sounded, the dumplings’ skins were awfully thick and the shrimp placed over them were doused in yet another creamy sauce. Homemade spaghetti sauce from ketchup Again, I like the ideas here, but the execution and balance of ingredients were a bit off.

The kitchen redeemed itself with dessert, my favourite being a rhubarb tart with Grey Owl goat cheese that managed to successfully fuse both the cheese and dessert courses. Best homemade spaghetti sauce with fresh tomatoes A sablé Breton topped with homemade pistachio ice cream was surrounded by sautéed strawberries. Making pasta sauce from scratch with tomatoes I liked this dessert very much, but I can never understand why anyone would cook a strawberry at this time of year. Making sauce for pasta And finally, we were served a towering chocolate cake for two. Homemade pasta sauce for toddlers Layered with cream and topped with puréed raspberries, the cake was surrounded by chunks of nougat, bubbly white chocolate (like an Aero bar) and cubes of transparent gelatin that were very bouncy and not all that tasty. Easy homemade spaghetti sauce from scratch I like the attempt to get a bit wild, but the resulting dessert didn’t taste as good as it looked.

I’m told Cadet has been busy since the day it opened, which makes me wonder whether they had a chance to fine-tune the menu before the festivalgoers descended. Tomato pasta sauce recipe jamie oliver No doubt it’s a great addition to this neighbourhood, yet Cadet’s not quite there yet. Pasta sauce homemade recipe Considering the humble and talented duo behind this enterprise, though, I’m sure that when the tents come down and the crowds thin out, this cool new wine bar will eventually wow us as much as the mother ship a few doors away.

You can hear Lesley Chesterman on ICI Radio-Canada Première’s Médium Large (95.1 FM) Tuesdays at 10 a.m., and on CHOM (97.7 FM) Wednesdays at 7:10 a.m.